Cheap Battery Relocation Setup! - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Sileighty_85 · 11-04-2007, 11:42 AM

I've wanting to do a relocation to the trunk but didnt wanna pay 150+ for a box/kit or whatever it came with. So heres a cost Effective way for those who want to relocate their battery to the trunk.

Items
Snap On Marine Battery Box - Walmart $15
4 Gauge wire - Lowes 12ft for $25 (Maybe 12 1/2 ft to be safe)
Scosche Mini Max Fuse box - Walmart $10
Higher AMP Mini Max Fuse $2
Scosche Battery Terminal - Walmart $10
Neg. Battery Cable Autozone..ect. $10
(Prices May Vary)

Unfortunaly I didnt have a camera at the time
So i'll do this the best I can to explain it.

Step 1
Remove Battery Duh!

For the Pos cable you got that big ass wire for the car then a few white ones, I connected my Main Cable to the right side of the two insert into the fuse box. The white wires + any acessories you use into the left side. Then the Cable from the Battery plugs into the top right of the box.

For the SR I used an 80AMP for the Main Cable and a 30AMP for the accessories.
I belive for the KA you will need a higher AMP fuse for the Main Cable, Due to higher Amperge Draw from the KA Starter

Then feed the the Battery Cable trough the ECU Grommet through the Fire wall

Then run the Cable along the floor

Through the interior Chassis rail just as a precaution wrap the section that runs under the rail with chaff wrap to avoid being rubbed through.

Then feed it up under the rear seats (make sure nothing will pinch the cable to avoid unwanted grounding)

Then underneath the rear interoir pannels (For those of you who still have them)

For the Neg Gound I found the Shock Tower is most effective

Here where the Scosche Terminal comes into play

Then Bam! Your Done

i need tires · 11-04-2007, 11:44 AM

i did the same thing! i dont get why they sell those kits for soo much! looks good man!

R5SpdAttitude · 11-04-2007, 12:04 PM

I am going to have to do that

aznpoopy · 11-04-2007, 07:55 PM

you need a high amp fuse or circuit breaker on the pos as close to the battery as possible. your fuse location does not protect against shorts along the length of the cable through the chassis

additionally, if any of you are not using a sealed battery, add a liner along the edge of the box lid to make it air tight. drill a hole in the box and add a plastic hose, with some sealant around the hose, and run it to some place where the box can vent outside the car.

most racing tech inspection will require a metal battery tie down, so add that in too. use nuts with the integrated liner to make sure the holes you drill through the chassis/battery box for the tie down are airtight as well.

***S14DB*** · 11-04-2007, 08:08 PM

You should have used 2 or 0 gauge wire.

statik · 11-04-2007, 08:09 PM

good job, but seriously 3A racing vacuum lines? seriously?

Sileighty_85 · 11-04-2007, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S14DB

You should have used 2 or 0 gauge wire.

Noway its way too thick My buddy already tried it

Sileighty_85 · 11-04-2007, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by statik

good job, but seriously 3A racing vacuum lines? seriously?

ROTFL Bad Idea on that one, I already changed those out. they really sucked Kept getting Boost Spikes

racepar1 · 11-04-2007, 08:17 PM

2 guage is too thich for what? I relocated my battery to the pass side rear seat and I run a 2 guage cable.

Sileighty_85 · 11-04-2007, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racepar1

2 guage is too thich for what? I relocated my battery to the pass side rear seat and I run a 2 guage cable.

I used Solid Core (the thick strands) hard to bend and contour
Thats all they had -o-

racepar1 · 11-04-2007, 08:22 PM

My car is fuckin gutted like shit so I didn't have that problem. I just ran it down thw trans hump under what's left of the center console.

Sir · 11-04-2007, 09:27 PM

welding cable works better and its super easy to bend.
Than again this thread is called "CHEAP" so I guess you can substitue the crap parts for better quality and end up with better result.

ecuastyle84 · 11-04-2007, 09:35 PM

for $10 bucks more you could of got a wesco battery which fits perfectly where the battery tray is and still fit the piping for a front mount...thats how i have it on my car but your setup is cheap and simple...looks good

*NemeGuero* · 11-04-2007, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

Noway its way too thick My buddy already tried it

Well your buddy is an idiot. I'm using 2 gage.

4 is a bad idea.

racepar1 · 11-04-2007, 09:54 PM

I just realized that this guy added fuses, WHY? I ran my positive cable directly to the starter, the 2 power wires that attached to the batt cable end and went into the fusebox I ran to the starter as well, and the charge wire for the alternator that goes through the 75 amp maxi fuse I ran all the way back to the battery (although I probably could have just run that to the starter as well). Those additional fuses and holder are not necessary. Also I noticed that he did not run any additional grounds from the engine or intake manifold to the chasis, you should run additional grounds.

***S14DB*** · 11-04-2007, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

Noway its way too thick My buddy already tried it

How the fuck can wire be too thick? Most relocation kits come with 2 or 0. Starters suck a lot of amps.

projekt_s13 · 11-04-2007, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racepar1

I just realized that this guy added fuses, WHY? I ran my positive cable directly to the starter, the 2 power wires that attached to the batt cable end and went into the fusebox I ran to the starter as well, and the charge wire for the alternator that goes through the 75 amp maxi fuse I ran all the way back to the battery (although I probably could have just run that to the starter as well). Those additional fuses and holder are not necessary. Also I noticed that he did not run any additional grounds from the engine or intake manifold to the chasis, you should run additional grounds.

lol wtf are you taking about? You need fuses or your car could BURN to the ground. His weren't placed properly but its better then no fuse at all.

racepar1 · 11-04-2007, 10:09 PM

Ya, but the stock fusebox HAS fuses. Run your wiring throught the stock fusebox and you don't need to add any extras. The only cable that is not fused is the main power to the starter and that is not fused from the FACTORY.

babowc · 11-04-2007, 10:11 PM

$72.. not bad.
this gives full cranking power versus reduced.
especially in colder weather.

Skullavera · 11-04-2007, 10:18 PM

Looks like a decent setup. I used 2 gauge as well for both positive and negative. I grounded the battery in the back and also ran it to the engine bay, to my grounding distributor block.

Dousan_PG · 11-04-2007, 10:19 PM

hzahah

this is the worst thread how to ever
WOW

Skullavera · 11-04-2007, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racepar1

Ya, but the stock fusebox HAS fuses. Run your wiring throught the stock fusebox and you don't need to add any extras. The only cable that is not fused is the main power to the starter and that is not fused from the FACTORY.

Dude seriously? Of course the main power cable isn't fused because it's designed to go straight to your starter and is very short compared to the long ass 12ft+ of cable you will be running when you relocate your battery. The reason for the fuse is for protection just in case the cable shorts out anywhere along the way from the battery in your trunk to the engine bay.

Sileighty_85 · 11-04-2007, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NemeGuero

Well your buddy is an idiot. I'm using 2 gage.

4 is a bad idea.

Ive had it in there for a few months no problems

racepar1 · 11-04-2007, 10:36 PM

My battery isn't in the trunk it is in the passenger rear seat, and my cable isn't 12 ft long it is about 7, and my cable isn't hiding under the carpet and crap cuz I don't have any, And my cable won't short for a VEEEEEEERRRRRRYYYYYYYY long time because I insulated it with heater hose everywhere it rubs and it is held down with insulated clamps.

Skullavera · 11-04-2007, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racepar1

My battery isn't in the trunk it is in the passenger rear seat, and my cable isn't 12 ft long it is about 7, and my cable isn't hiding under the carpet and crap cuz I don't have any, And my cable won't short for a VEEEEEEERRRRRRYYYYYYYY long time because I insulated it with heater hose everywhere it rubs and it is held down with insulated clamps. So yes, I am serious,

kiss my ass.

WTF is your problem? I did not flame you or anything just gave info.

racepar1 · 11-04-2007, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skullavera

WTF is your problem? I did not flame you or anything just gave info.

Fuck you.

The kiss my ass part wasn't actually directed towards you skull.

Sileighty_85 · 11-04-2007, 10:42 PM

The reason I have the fuses in the front is cuz I dont have a giant ass butt connector to splice the Starter Cable to the New Battery Cable and it was hot as hell out side So i didnt feel like undoing my wiring to run it all the way to the stater. Ive havent had any issues with this setup. Full Amprege cranking power no dimming of lights, or charging problems

Skullavera · 11-04-2007, 10:44 PM

Well it seemed as though it was. Post edited and maybe with the info you posted after the fact I wouldn't have posted what I did. Sooooo..........

I guess in your situation it would be very well protected against shorts.

racepar1 · 11-04-2007, 10:48 PM

If you are gunna run a fuse though it should be by the battery. If that cable shorts on the battery side of that fuse you are gunna melt down your battery at the least and most likely your car as well.

racepar1 · 11-04-2007, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skullavera

Well it seemed as though it was. Post edited and maybe with the info you posted after the fact I wouldn't have posted what I did. Sooooo..........

I guess in your situation it would be very well protected against shorts.

No problem I shoulda been more specific about that. Oh well.

11-04-2007, 11:42 AM	#1
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Cheap Battery Relocation Setup! I've wanting to do a relocation to the trunk but didnt wanna pay 150+ for a box/kit or whatever it came with. So heres a cost Effective way for those who want to relocate their battery to the trunk. Items Snap On Marine Battery Box - Walmart $15 4 Gauge wire - Lowes 12ft for $25 (Maybe 12 1/2 ft to be safe) Scosche Mini Max Fuse box - Walmart $10 Higher AMP Mini Max Fuse $2 Scosche Battery Terminal - Walmart $10 Neg. Battery Cable Autozone..ect. $10 (Prices May Vary) Unfortunaly I didnt have a camera at the time So i'll do this the best I can to explain it. Step 1 Remove Battery Duh! For the Pos cable you got that big ass wire for the car then a few white ones, I connected my Main Cable to the right side of the two insert into the fuse box. The white wires + any acessories you use into the left side. Then the Cable from the Battery plugs into the top right of the box. For the SR I used an 80AMP for the Main Cable and a 30AMP for the accessories. I belive for the KA you will need a higher AMP fuse for the Main Cable, Due to higher Amperge Draw from the KA Starter Then feed the the Battery Cable trough the ECU Grommet through the Fire wall Then run the Cable along the floor Through the interior Chassis rail just as a precaution wrap the section that runs under the rail with chaff wrap to avoid being rubbed through. Then feed it up under the rear seats (make sure nothing will pinch the cable to avoid unwanted grounding) Then underneath the rear interoir pannels (For those of you who still have them) For the Neg Gound I found the Shock Tower is most effective Here where the Scosche Terminal comes into play Then Bam! Your Done __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

11-04-2007, 11:44 AM	#2
i need tires Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Chandler, Az Age: 38 Posts: 1,056 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	i did the same thing! i dont get why they sell those kits for soo much! looks good man! __________________ JadeCantDrift Blogspot

11-04-2007, 08:08 PM	#5
*S14DB* AFC #1 Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: 昨晩あなたのお母さんの家 Posts: 20,181 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	You should have used 2 or 0 gauge wire. __________________ Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact

11-04-2007, 08:09 PM	#6
statik Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Long Island, NY Age: 40 Posts: 1,358 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: statik Feedback Score: 0 reviews	good job, but seriously 3A racing vacuum lines? seriously? __________________ 97 240sx esaarr \| Current Status: SOLD

11-04-2007, 09:35 PM	#13
ecuastyle84 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: New Jersey Posts: 552 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: ecuastyle84 Feedback Score: 1 reviews	for $10 bucks more you could of got a wesco battery which fits perfectly where the battery tray is and still fit the piping for a front mount...thats how i have it on my car but your setup is cheap and simple...looks good __________________ *FS: S13 FULL PARTOUT...LOTS OF GOODIES!!!*

11-04-2007, 12:04 PM	#3
R5SpdAttitude Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Washington Posts: 26 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I am going to have to do that

11-04-2007, 07:55 PM	#4
aznpoopy Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Jersey Age: 44 Posts: 5,013 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	you need a high amp fuse or circuit breaker on the pos as close to the battery as possible. your fuse location does not protect against shorts along the length of the cable through the chassis additionally, if any of you are not using a sealed battery, add a liner along the edge of the box lid to make it air tight. drill a hole in the box and add a plastic hose, with some sealant around the hose, and run it to some place where the box can vent outside the car. most racing tech inspection will require a metal battery tie down, so add that in too. use nuts with the integrated liner to make sure the holes you drill through the chassis/battery box for the tie down are airtight as well.

11-04-2007, 08:17 PM	#9
racepar1 Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Simi Valley, CA Age: 42 Posts: 9,006 Trader Rating: (106) Rides Gallery: racepar1 Feedback Score: 106 reviews	2 guage is too thich for what? I relocated my battery to the pass side rear seat and I run a 2 guage cable.

11-04-2007, 08:22 PM	#11
racepar1 Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Simi Valley, CA Age: 42 Posts: 9,006 Trader Rating: (106) Rides Gallery: racepar1 Feedback Score: 106 reviews	My car is fuckin gutted like shit so I didn't have that problem. I just ran it down thw trans hump under what's left of the center console.

11-04-2007, 09:54 PM	#15
racepar1 Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Simi Valley, CA Age: 42 Posts: 9,006 Trader Rating: (106) Rides Gallery: racepar1 Feedback Score: 106 reviews	I just realized that this guy added fuses, WHY? I ran my positive cable directly to the starter, the 2 power wires that attached to the batt cable end and went into the fusebox I ran to the starter as well, and the charge wire for the alternator that goes through the 75 amp maxi fuse I ran all the way back to the battery (although I probably could have just run that to the starter as well). Those additional fuses and holder are not necessary. Also I noticed that he did not run any additional grounds from the engine or intake manifold to the chasis, you should run additional grounds.

11-04-2007, 10:09 PM	#18
racepar1 Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Simi Valley, CA Age: 42 Posts: 9,006 Trader Rating: (106) Rides Gallery: racepar1 Feedback Score: 106 reviews	Ya, but the stock fusebox HAS fuses. Run your wiring throught the stock fusebox and you don't need to add any extras. The only cable that is not fused is the main power to the starter and that is not fused from the FACTORY.

11-04-2007, 10:11 PM	#19
babowc Post Whore! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: G.NET Posts: 2,659 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	$72.. not bad. this gives full cranking power versus reduced. especially in colder weather. __________________ My iTrader rating!

11-04-2007, 10:18 PM	#20
Skullavera Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: City of Angels Posts: 1,327 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: Skullavera Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Looks like a decent setup. I used 2 gauge as well for both positive and negative. I grounded the battery in the back and also ran it to the engine bay, to my grounding distributor block. __________________ Reviews/Feedback!

11-04-2007, 10:19 PM	#21
Dousan_PG Post Whore! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Orange County, California Age: 46 Posts: 16,640 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: Dousan_PG Feedback Score: 23 reviews	hzahah this is the worst thread how to ever WOW __________________ Aaron Pink GodziRa www.geocities.com/pink_godzira

11-04-2007, 10:36 PM	#24
racepar1 Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Simi Valley, CA Age: 42 Posts: 9,006 Trader Rating: (106) Rides Gallery: racepar1 Feedback Score: 106 reviews	My battery isn't in the trunk it is in the passenger rear seat, and my cable isn't 12 ft long it is about 7, and my cable isn't hiding under the carpet and crap cuz I don't have any, And my cable won't short for a VEEEEEEERRRRRRYYYYYYYY long time because I insulated it with heater hose everywhere it rubs and it is held down with insulated clamps.

11-04-2007, 10:42 PM	#27
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	The reason I have the fuses in the front is cuz I dont have a giant ass butt connector to splice the Starter Cable to the New Battery Cable and it was hot as hell out side So i didnt feel like undoing my wiring to run it all the way to the stater. Ive havent had any issues with this setup. Full Amprege cranking power no dimming of lights, or charging problems __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

11-04-2007, 10:44 PM	#28
Skullavera Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: City of Angels Posts: 1,327 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: Skullavera Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Well it seemed as though it was. Post edited and maybe with the info you posted after the fact I wouldn't have posted what I did. Sooooo.......... I guess in your situation it would be very well protected against shorts. __________________ Reviews/Feedback!

11-04-2007, 10:48 PM	#29
racepar1 Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Simi Valley, CA Age: 42 Posts: 9,006 Trader Rating: (106) Rides Gallery: racepar1 Feedback Score: 106 reviews	If you are gunna run a fuse though it should be by the battery. If that cable shorts on the battery side of that fuse you are gunna melt down your battery at the least and most likely your car as well.