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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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Oil Cooler Set up
Alright, I know this is stupid but whatever, I got an OIl Cooler
I got 1 Oil Cooler 4 1/2npt to AN-8 Adaptors 4 AN -8 fittings Oil Filter Sandwich plate you guys think I will be ok with that?. i did a search but i couldn;t really get my queston answered so yeah just wanna make sure before I put it on my car last thing I want is my Shit blowing up and spilling oil all over the highway lol -Juan p.S. No I don't want to relocate my oil filter it's perfectly fine where it is now. Last edited by bardabe; 08-22-2007 at 11:43 PM.. Reason: over looked my set up |
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#4 |
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+1 for you buddy found it
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=5128 |
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#5 |
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what motor is that for Juan? I was thinking about doing an oil cooler setup, based on the Trans Dapt 1113 Remote Oil filter kit (it fits S13 SR's and KA's I think - http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_42218_-1) and just rerouting one of the hoses to the cooler... keeps the cost down
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#6 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Seems pretty standard but you're missing a thermostat. I have the same sandwich plate from that link to pegasus except I got it from Canton. It's a nice piece but I have to do run an in-line thermostat. Mocal makes a nice sandwich plate with an integrated thermostat.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal.htm |
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#7 |
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the greddy one i suggested has a thermo http://240sxmotoring.com/groilcoadw.html
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#8 |
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I don't like the -8 for oil, especially the rb, I would want to go -10 at least.
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#9 | |
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I believe Juan as a RB20.
Yeah your oil is in a great spot!
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#10 | |
Zilvia Addict
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Quote:
My current setup is all -8 with a 10x10 Setrab oil cooler |
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#11 | |||||
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yep yep, ![]() Quote:
so I will like to hear why the -10 is Preferable over the -8AN aside from the ovious Allot bigger diameter. |
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#12 |
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most all the kits that come from japan (greddy, tomei block, um...who else...section i think) are -10
everyone i know who did them said go -10 so i went -10 -8 should be fine but i prefer -10 and its fine i got a new oil pump anyways so no worries. |
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Lots of great info, and in time. I too am in process of running a relo/cooler setup.
Question tho - its not clear how the external thermo is run with the setup. Can anyone do a quick illustration of how that is connected? |
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#15 |
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I would have, but have a brand new Greddy Relo kit sitting here right next to my B&M Oil cooler. Was just making up the stainless -10an lines and looking at how to run everything together. While doing so i was searching around about details and came across this and a few other websites mentioning the thermostat.
Just not clear to me with having 4 NPT connections on the external, how it is all put together. |
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Zilvia FREAK!
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Instead of plugging the inlet and outlet hoses to the oil cooler, you plug them into the thermo instead. Now you need two extra hoses to run from the thermo to the oil cooler itself. So basically you need 4 extra fittings and two more lengths of hose (or if you already have two measured lengths of hose you can cut those into 4 pieces obviously) compared to an install with no inline thermostat.
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#17 |
Zilvia Addict
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FYI don't use this style spin on block
http://personal.linkline.com/dbarton...erAdapter1.jpg it will get loose and start to leak. Mehsilvia - oilcoolers and blocks usually have female ports (1/2NPT) that you use the 1/2NPT-xAN adapters to attach your lines to. Oilcooler NPT <-> NPTtoAN adapoter <-> AN fitting-AN line-AN fitting <-> ANtoNPT adapter <-> Oil block. |
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#19 |
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the cooler i just picked up doesnt have a thermo. i know what it does but if i dont have one what precautions should i take. say let the car warm up more before driving? btw its a 13x6 cooler with 10an hoses/fittings. which are freakin huge, they are 7/8" inch thick.. thanks guys.
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#20 |
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The common thought is that the oil takes a while to warm up anyway (longer than your coolant, for sure) so when you basically double your oil volume (with the cooler/lines/etc) it'll take EVEN LONGER to warm up. Sure, you might be OK without a thermo, but then again, what's $100 when you're talking about rod bearings?
Get that thermo listed above and a couple more hoses. That's what I plan on doing ~ It'll buy you peace of mind.
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#21 |
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i run no thermo
and my stuff is fine full track car warms up real fast let ti idle, drive it around. get the temps up, then rip on it for a street car. i would probaly run a thermo but maybe not. |
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#24 | |
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Quote:
http://daileyengineering.com/SMALLSIZE.htm Check out the link. I can believe that the scavenge lines are -8, but the single line from scavenge pump to reservoir is -20 (that's f_ing big). Point is, bigger isn't going to hurt you. I used -10 lines on the dry-sump I designed for our FSAE car, Honda 600cc F4i motor. Some other teams used -8, some used -10. The -10 are a little bit more bulky, but will not be a flow restriction as said above. Plus, looks like you have plenty of room.
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#26 |
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You need -12 to do that!
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#27 |
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i know ebay shit is pretty shady most of the time, but what about this O.C. kit?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PERFO...mZ250157586850 this would be for a autocross/street driven KA24DE N/A btw..
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#28 |
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Something about "Glow Shift Gauges" making oil cooler kits dosent sound right. lol i wouldn't trust that shit. it;s like buying an APC Turbo kit. I wouldn't trust that shit either
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#30 |
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got one of these kits for free so i said fuck it why not. turned out to work really well. -10an hoses, 13x6.5 cooler, no leaks, all the fittings and your ports for pressure and temp. hell their customer service was pretty good. i was very skeptical, i thought it would be complete junk but hey, it works.
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